Day 07: Segovia

Date	Jun 15
Total This Camino:	70 miles.
Total All Caminos:	1470 miles
Lodging:	Hotel Corregidor @ $ 23
Total Lodging:	$ 196
Buses / Trains:
Total Buses / Trains:	$ 18
Food:	$ 20
Total Food:	$ 130

Meaningful Moment

Touring the Jewish quarter of Segovia with Deb. 

We had a guided tour of the Judería and a description of the times and events of the 14th and 15th centuries. Originally the Muslims, the Jews and the Christians lived together in harmony, but over time religious prejudices led to expulsion and forced conversions. 

Today there is no Jewish population in Segovia. There are significant historical architectural places of interest left in the Jewish quarter, but no population. Although many have been repurposed into Christian buildings.

It was an interesting experience to be on a "pilgrimage" along a Catholic pilgrim route and learning about a significant period of intolerance by the Church.

Random Thought of the Day

Not so random but given the heat wave that is baking Spain right now, Deb and I had a discussion about how to continue our Camino de Madrid .

And after 5 days of high 90 plus Fahrenheit temperatures in the afternoons, with the temperatures breaking 80° usually by 11:00 a.m., it only makes sense to take on smaller stages right now.

We have the time yet that we don't have to rush things in order to have a day or two at the end. So leaving Segovia is a 35 km, or approximately 20 mile day, if one follows the suggested stages.

We have already decided to break that into two stages of approximately 11 mi and 9 mi.

Los Huertos will be our first stay in a municipal albergue which only provide very limited services. Typically bunk beds in a shared dormitory style room with foam mattresses and paper sheets to reduce bed bug spread. The bathrooms will be shared with community sinks and showers. There's no amenities and no services. On the other hand the cost will be about $7 per person per night.

Deb and I visited the Cathedral of Segovia, and it was beautiful inside but I was asking myself about how many cathedrals I have seen now after all my Camino's de Santiago.

On the Road / Notable memories

Just remembered an interesting experience in Colmenar Viejo. On the way into town, we stopped in front of a cemetery to rest. There we were talking with two women about the Camino to Santiago. One of the women mentioned that her husband was going to start it in 3 days from Madrid, but there wasn't much to say since I would never see these people again.

Don't you know as we were walking through the town, one of the women comes running over to us, saying "We met at the cemetery, we met at the cemetery. And this is my husband who's starting to Camino Madrid in 3 days."

So the four of us ended up taking 15 or 20 minutes to laugh and talk and joke and chat and just have some fun there on a street in Colmenar Viejo.

Maria, tour guide whose Spanish was perfect.

Maria was our tour guide through the Jewish quarter. She did tell us that the guide would be in Spanish, but that did not concern us. But what was nice was how perfectly she spoke her Spanish, clearly distinctly and precisely. That was the key to an outstanding tour that we enjoyed. I think my comprehension was somewhere around 95%.

Doing a little better in the heat but have AC.

At our hotel, where we are staying two nights because of the rest day to visit Segovia, I have gotten very used to the air conditioning and I think I will sorely miss it when we return to the Camino. It makes a person wonder how did our ancestors survive these heat waves or cold spells or droughts or whatever natural disaster without all the technologies of today.

	The Roman aqueduct of Segovia, built 2000 years ago by the Romans as they show of force for the empire.
	Segovia actually lies on a river, so the aqueduct was not necessary, but it showed what the empire was capable of in order to have fresh water from the mountains.
	Plaza de Mayor
	Barrio park
	Tinto verano break
	Segovia street view
	Cathedral of Segovia
	Having a drink in Plaza Mayor
	The walled portion of Segovia City
	Jewish quarter

Day 06: Valsain to Segovia

Date	Jun 14
Today's Distance:	10 miles / 16 km
Route and Stats	Route Video
Total This Camino:	70 miles.
Total All Caminos:	1470 miles
Lodging:	Hotel Corregidor @ $ 23
Total Lodging:	$ 173
Buses / Trains:	$
Total Buses / Trains:	$ 18
Food:	$ 25
Total Food:	$ 110

Meaningful Moment

Sharing a cold drink, bought at a local supermarket on the way into Segovia, with Deb on a bench under the shade of a tree.

***

After having all the restaurants last night in Valsaín closed, we started the day with a serious calories deficiency. In fact, we think we've Benning running a calorie deficiency for the entire Camino to date. 

Combine that with temperatures easily breaking 95 every day in the afternoon, having serious hydration issues in the heat, it's no surprise that our bodies felt unusually beat up even for experienced hikers.

So walking around Segovia in the evening, we stumbled across a bar that was open with a Menu del día that sounded delicious. It was early for Spain, only 6:30 p.m., for the kitchen to be open but I asked anyway. And were we surprised that the kitchen was open.

Deb had paella and I had a similar dish only over noodles instead of rice for our first course.

The main entrees were pork and chicken, we got one of each. And for dessert it was flan and ice cream.

I had a really cold cervesa to drink, and it was like heaven.

Then we followed it up with a little walk around Segovia, and ended up in a small park where we went to a little sushi vendor, not for sushi but for more cold drinks. A white wine, a tinto verano, and two more bottles of water LOL.

Random Thought of the Day

Ended up walking along the road for the entire day.

But it was very, very flat.

Halfway thru we crossed over a large reservoir which made for a nice view.

On the Road / Notable memories

Deb and I had some great rest stops along the Camino today.

In the town of Ildofensa, I had coffee con leche and pineapple juice. Deb had a cafe negro and tortilla. After all, we had to make up for there being no restaurants open the night before. 

On the way into Segovia, we stopped in a supermarket for Zambuchas, found a bench with shade and drank up. 

Since it was still not check-in time, we stopped in a restaurant in a plaza, where we had tapas and tortillas. Being unbelievably thirsty, I ordered a coca cola and orange juice and Deb ordered a seltzer and orange juice. 

Each rest stop today was so enjoyable as a simple moment of pleasure.

Roman aqueducts of Segovia, 

built 2000 years ago

Day 05: Cercedilla to Valsain

Date	Jun 13
Today's Distance:	14 miles / 23 km
	Route Video
Total This Camino:	60 miles.
Total All Caminos:	1460 miles
Lodging:	@ $ 40
Total Lodging:	$ 150
Buses / Trains:	$
Total Buses / Trains:	$ 18
Food:	$
Total Food:	$ 85

Meaningful Moment

What is said to be one of the hardest days on the Camino de Madrid is now behind us. Although it took a lot of effort and struggle, we made the climb of the Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range.

After 5 hours of struggling up 1800 ft of elevation gain, Deb and I made it to Fuente de la Fuenfria. When we made it to that place, we were standing in a pass created by the Romans 2,000 years ago to link the Spanish, that is to say, Roman cities of Merida and Zaragoza.

It was a pretty awesome feeling to realize that where I was standing, that 2000 years ago, Roman legions crossed here.

I can't wrap my head around how the people of two millennia ago  we're surviving in this area and thriving in this area. I wonder what it must have been like for the locals to face the 

P coming Roman invasion and all the changes that would bring to their way of life.

Random Thought of the Day

While we were walking around Valsaín, we came across this beautiful white cat with yellow green eyes just sitting on a dirt path.

Also feeling better than yesterday. Perhaps I had a touch of heat issues from a potential loss of electrolytes, combined with a protein bar that just did not agree with me. In any event, I drank Powerade and water during the hike, along with eating some meats and cheeses and that seemed to be okay.

On the Road / Notable memories

After reaching the summit of the mountain, we had about a 9 mi hike still to the hostel.

It was downhill for quite a way, but then suddenly it was back up hill, climbing and climbing, not as steep as before but certainly just as long.

The day finally ended with a prolonged downhill climb along the road which made it somewhat difficult on the calves.

After 9:00 and 1/2 hours of hiking, when we reached our casa rural in Navelhorno, we discovered that there were zero restaurants open and zero stores open for purchasing foodstuffs. Deb and I were lucky to have some food saved from today's long hike: some cold cuts, some sliced cheese, some flan, some yogurt, some grapes and some power bars. Because that is supper tonight.

However the place had an open pool. What was crazy was how, despite being about 93F,  cold the water was. That did not stop me from going in twice. 

I could live without a restaurant, but I surely needed that pool. Deb put her feet in, and we started to unwind from a most physically demanding day 

	The path started out as pavement at the beginning.
	Then turned into a dirt walking path.
	On the way up the Sierra de Guadarrama
	The land use around the Madrid area is for housing development, farming and ranching. So all the green in this national park was a sight for sore eyes.
	The last third of the trail and the steepest part was rocky. It is very difficult on the feet and knees as there is near constant torsional stressors on the joints.
	And so begins the long descent.
	The trees are mostly pine.
	It was a beautiful day for a walk in the national Park. After this we have mostly farmlands and ranches, all flat, all the way to the end of the Camino de madrid.

Day 04: Manzarenas El Real to Cercedilla

Date	Jun 12
Today's Distance:	14 miles / 23 km
Route and Stats	Route Video
Total This Camino:	46 miles.
Total All Caminos:	1446 miles
Lodging:	Hostel La Maya @ $ 20
Total Lodging:	$ 110
Buses / Trains:
Total Buses / Trains:	$ 18
Food:	$ 25
Total Food:	$ 85

Meaningful Moment

Today I started to feel not so good. I had eaten a protein bar, which was very heavy on the belly, earlier in the day, and thought that might be the cause. But Deb and I discussed how we were both feeling and we had some same symptoms, although to different degrees.

Over the past 3 days we have been drinking a lot of water because of the burning sun and the lack of shade. There's a well understood condition where a person drinks so much water that they lose electrolytes. It's possible that's what happened to me.

So we headed over to the local supermarket and bought bottles of Powerade, which is a drink that re-infuses important vitamins and minerals. It may be coincidence, but since I've been drinking Powerade, I felt a bit better. 

The real test will be tomorrow because Deb and I have to climb the Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range. Once we start the climb, we will have to go up 1800 ft in about 3 MI which translates to about 600 ft per mile. All the reading I've done says that this is a very hard climb.

Random Thought of the Day

The bartender filled four bottles of water for me today. We're going to need all that water tomorrow and I wouldn't be surprised if we drink every drop along with two bottles of Powerade.

On the Road / Notable memories

The trail markings were good in many places but there were two occasions where the markings disappeared and I got confused as to which way we should be going. Wasted some time.

	Aren't they handsome?
	Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range
	Part of today's trail was essentially dirt roads that in the past were used to move cattle from place to place.
	Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range
	Mataelpino
	Mataelpino Plaza Mayor
	Big big guarddog
	Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range
	At times we were surrounded by really beautiful vegetation
	Selfie
	First Creek we came across that has actually had running water in it
	Pretty flowers make a break from the long, winding dirt roads
	The view from our room in Cercedilla

Day 3: Tres Cantos to Manzarenas El Real

Date	Jun 11
Today's Distance:	18 miles / 29 km
Route and Stats	Route Video
Total This Camino:	32 miles.
Total All Caminos:	1432 miles
Lodging:	Hostel Pedriza @ $ 20
Total Lodging:	$ 90
Buses / Trains:
Total Buses / Trains:	$ 18
Food:	$ 25
Total Food:	$ 60

Meaningful Moment

Towards the end of the day's hiking, exhausted and spent and tired, we came across a tree that provided a meager amount of shade against unending blue skies and constant sun. I laid my rain slick out on the ground under that tree and we rested for about 15 minutes in the shade against the sun, with the temperature in the low 90s and with a cooling breeze coming off the hills around us.

Random Thought of the Day

We had an incessant climb in the middle of the hike, at around 8 miles, just to reach our midpoint coffee break and lunch. Then at the end of the day we had a real long descent down a rocky trail after already walking 16 miles.

Between the two of us we went through seven of 1.5 liter bottles of water. Unbelievable.

Ate my first full meal after today's hike. At the hostel, the kitchen was open even though it was only 6 pm. That is unusual as the kitchen doesn't open normally until 7pm. So I grabbed an order of albondigas (meatballs) in tomato sauce over rice, cold gazpacho and a beer. Later I went back for strawberry mousse and a Tinto Verano, which is a cold wine drink that goes down so good on such a hot day.

On the Road / Notable memories

Came across some Spanish graffiti today that said, " I respect authority about as much as I respect my mother. " Clearly has authority issues.

After 8 hours in the sun and heat, the sun finally went behind a cloud bank for the last hour and a half. It was like heaven.

Tomorrow's adventure should only be about 12 miles so with an early start, we hope to be in Cercedilla by 2 pm. That would make an opportunity for a bit of a rest day.

	Onward ... Onward ... Onward.
	Shade was a precious rare commodity.
	I think we are around the 15 mile marker.
	Colmenar Viejo, or midday resting town.
	See how blue the sky is. High 80s to low 90s during the hike today.